Japan is not like the United States, and even Europe. 99% of the people there look, well, Japanese. I have a face that lets me look like a native in most places I've been to (I've been called Italian, Greek, Armenian, French, Turkish, and was even mistaken for a very pale Brazilian). But there was no way I was to be mistaken for being Japanese.
But being different has its advantages. One of my conference friends is from Iceland. His blonde hair attracted crowds of school-age Japanese girls, who turned their heads to say hello, giggling "not" so shyly. One even asked to be his facebook friend.
I'm different, but not "that" exotic. I had no such crowd of Japanese school-age girls smiling at me while I traveled alone. Or boys for that matter. I guess some types of exotic are more exotic than others.
But as I was telling this story to a third friend, I turn around. And I am telling the honest-to-goodness truth. A young Japanese girl, about three years old, is staring at me, her jaw dropping open.
I guess someone out there thinks I'm exotic after all. :-)
Friday, June 15, 2012
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Sea Urchins and Home-made Tofu
Japan was a whole new world, food wise. One difficulty I did not foresee was even identifying restaurants. Most didn't have flashy neon signs in front. There were some words in pretty Japanese characters, a low door to step through, and a quick prayer you didn't step into someone's house. After a few days, we found the key - restaurants were marked with banners of cloth hanging in front of the door that you had to push aside to enter, and bars were marked with red lanterns.
You know things will get interesting when this is the menu that greets you:
No mom, there were no chimichangas on the menu.
One night we went to a sushi restaurant. We sat on a table in the ground. Nearby was the bar, where the sushi chefs wore colorful clothes and headbands.
I joined the old and new University of Texas students and postdocs. Here we order an assortment of sushi. I tried sea urchin for the first time. Before I tried sea urchin, I knew the outcome would be bad. Either:
1. I would like it, and then I would like one of the most expensive things on the menu, - or -
2. I wouldn't like it, and just paid for something disgusting.
I'll have you guess which one actually happened.
I figured Japan would be the place to try it. I couldn't bring myself to eat my second piece, so instead I traded it for a piece of eel sushi. The good part of this story - eel is quite good.
Working on chopstick skills.
Near the restaurant was a giant crab. I take it that it's somewhat of a local landmark.
The meal started out with an amazingly arranged appetizer course. Not only was it beautiful, but it was tasty! Some sashimi is near the bottom, along with tofu, some balls of rice, and pickled something-or-other.
Starting the meal.
As part of the banquet, we were able to make our own tofu. Here are the instructions:
I asked myself these questions:
1. What is nigari?
2. What is ponzu?
3. What am I doing?
But we figured it out, and ended up making our own tofu. It ended up being quite interesting - at first it was stringy, and then it firmed up. With the ponzu sauce, it was nice.
The next course was a clear soup with bamboo shoots.
My favorite course was an onion, covered in a soy sauce with beef.
Then we got sushi!
Dessert was green tea, plain tofu yogurt and peaches.
And now, for a point: What kind of sushi did I NOT see in Japan?
a. Salmon
b. Roe
c. Beef
d. Avocado
e. Albacore
f. Egg
g. Oyster
h. Wrapped in a banana leaf
i. Just a big ball of rice
You know things will get interesting when this is the menu that greets you:
 |
| Point to something, and hope for the best |
One night we went to a sushi restaurant. We sat on a table in the ground. Nearby was the bar, where the sushi chefs wore colorful clothes and headbands.
I joined the old and new University of Texas students and postdocs. Here we order an assortment of sushi. I tried sea urchin for the first time. Before I tried sea urchin, I knew the outcome would be bad. Either:
1. I would like it, and then I would like one of the most expensive things on the menu, - or -
2. I wouldn't like it, and just paid for something disgusting.
I'll have you guess which one actually happened.
I figured Japan would be the place to try it. I couldn't bring myself to eat my second piece, so instead I traded it for a piece of eel sushi. The good part of this story - eel is quite good.
 |
| Assorted sushi fun! |
Near the restaurant was a giant crab. I take it that it's somewhat of a local landmark.
One of the most interesting food experiences was at the conference banquet. A small paper crane greets us.
The meal started out with an amazingly arranged appetizer course. Not only was it beautiful, but it was tasty! Some sashimi is near the bottom, along with tofu, some balls of rice, and pickled something-or-other.
Starting the meal.
As part of the banquet, we were able to make our own tofu. Here are the instructions:
I asked myself these questions:
1. What is nigari?
2. What is ponzu?
3. What am I doing?
 |
| With the fire lit underneath. |
But we figured it out, and ended up making our own tofu. It ended up being quite interesting - at first it was stringy, and then it firmed up. With the ponzu sauce, it was nice.
The next course was a clear soup with bamboo shoots.
My favorite course was an onion, covered in a soy sauce with beef.
Then we got sushi!
Dessert was green tea, plain tofu yogurt and peaches.
And now, for a point: What kind of sushi did I NOT see in Japan?
a. Salmon
b. Roe
c. Beef
d. Avocado
e. Albacore
f. Egg
g. Oyster
h. Wrapped in a banana leaf
i. Just a big ball of rice
Saturday, June 9, 2012
Hitting the Streets - the Night Life of Kyoto
Even at night, Kyoto glows in the presence of its many shrines.
Kyoto has some fabulous shopping streets - open late, and many of them under covered walkways.
Awesome! Kimono sale!
Kyoto is awash with opposites. There is the old mixed in with the new. Where else can you find a shrine on one of the busiest shopping streets of the city?
Walking into the shrine. There is another dragon shaped faucet to wash hands and the mouth.
Almost all shrines are equipped with a rope attached to either a bell or a gong. I would see many people walk up to a shrine, throw a coin in the box, ring the bell, bow, and clap their hands.
Multi-colored cranes strung together.
Leaving the shrine, we are back in the commercial world again. Complete with claw machines filled with giant kitty heads!
An awesome building in the shopping district.
A florist with an interesting slogan.
One night, we actually found a French cafe. This picture might look boring, but if you look carefully, you will see the green "sortie" sign over the door.
The menu, in French and Japanese. They actually did a pretty good job with the French!
Interesting bar names, like "Seaquest" and "Jelly Bean Rocket".
The lively street.
Outside of Louis Vuitton, Kyoto. Ever want to throw a dart at a purse?
Kyoto has some fabulous shopping streets - open late, and many of them under covered walkways.
Awesome! Kimono sale!
Kyoto is awash with opposites. There is the old mixed in with the new. Where else can you find a shrine on one of the busiest shopping streets of the city?
Walking into the shrine. There is another dragon shaped faucet to wash hands and the mouth.
Almost all shrines are equipped with a rope attached to either a bell or a gong. I would see many people walk up to a shrine, throw a coin in the box, ring the bell, bow, and clap their hands.
Multi-colored cranes strung together.
Buddah.
Leaving the shrine, we are back in the commercial world again. Complete with claw machines filled with giant kitty heads!
 |
| It's only slightly horrifying! |
A florist with an interesting slogan.
One night, we actually found a French cafe. This picture might look boring, but if you look carefully, you will see the green "sortie" sign over the door.
The menu, in French and Japanese. They actually did a pretty good job with the French!
Interesting bar names, like "Seaquest" and "Jelly Bean Rocket".
The lively street.
Outside of Louis Vuitton, Kyoto. Ever want to throw a dart at a purse?
Thursday, June 7, 2012
Eclipse Viewing in Japan
The first day I was in Kyoto, I was treated to an annular eclipse. I had to travel from Europe to Japan to see it, but see it I did! I was lucky because it wasn't cloudy. So I hit the streets in the early morning with thousands of Japanese school children to see the eclipse.
Here's the image of the eclipse, as seen through the leaves of a tree.
I tried to take a picture by using my solar filter against my camera, but it didn't work out too well. But hey, you can see the sun and the moon, very, very far away.
As totality approached, I saw the sky dim. Was it coming cloud cover? Actually, no, it was the moon, which I suppose reached the critical amount of solar coverage to actually substantially change the amount of brightness on the Earth.
Totality was pretty cool. Through my solar glasses, I could see the moon, surrounded by the sun, in a lopsided glowing orange ring. It only lasted a minute though, so no pictures, however, my parents, who lived in "the best city in the world to see the eclipse" got some awesome pictures.
A point to anyone who can explain why sometimes we see a total eclipse, and sometimes we see an annular eclipse.
Here's the image of the eclipse, as seen through the leaves of a tree.
I tried to take a picture by using my solar filter against my camera, but it didn't work out too well. But hey, you can see the sun and the moon, very, very far away.
As totality approached, I saw the sky dim. Was it coming cloud cover? Actually, no, it was the moon, which I suppose reached the critical amount of solar coverage to actually substantially change the amount of brightness on the Earth.
Totality was pretty cool. Through my solar glasses, I could see the moon, surrounded by the sun, in a lopsided glowing orange ring. It only lasted a minute though, so no pictures, however, my parents, who lived in "the best city in the world to see the eclipse" got some awesome pictures.
A point to anyone who can explain why sometimes we see a total eclipse, and sometimes we see an annular eclipse.
Saturday, June 2, 2012
Temple Hopping
The main thing travelers to Kyoto complain about is "Temple fatigue". With thousands (literally!) of temples and shrines around the city, there is definitely plenty to see.
First is Nishi-Hongan-ji Temple, established in 1272. Like most of the other temples in Kyoto, it is made of wood (therefore, the grounds are littered with no smoking signs!)
The elaborate tiles on the roof of the temple.
A lone woman carries her shoes with her as she goes to pray in the temple.
The main temple hall, with huge wooden doors in front of sliding screens.
Temple bell.
The main gate was impressive! It was made of black wood, and painted with fantastic animals.
Heading to the next temple, I pass an orange Tori gate.
Another blue heron in the pond in front of the temple.
Around the temple.
The temple bell.
My first encounter with raked white pebbles. There will be many more!
Walking to the next temple, we see a huge Tori gate in the city. They're everywhere!
The Shoren-in Temple. This was one of my favorites. It was so incredibly peaceful. All of the walls were screens, which could be rolled back to see the amazing garden. The fluid movement from indoors to outdoors contributed to the magic of this temple.
Passing from room to room, all separated by sliding screens.
I think that if I could have a house designed like this, I would be very content.
Behind the temple was a bamboo forest, with conference friends Kari and Richard for scale.
The giant bell on the temple grounds. We even rang it!
The massive gate of the Chion-in Temple. The large wooden gate is one of the largest in Japan.
Another sculpted tree. Look at how long the branches can grow when they are supported!
First is Nishi-Hongan-ji Temple, established in 1272. Like most of the other temples in Kyoto, it is made of wood (therefore, the grounds are littered with no smoking signs!)
The elaborate tiles on the roof of the temple.
A lone woman carries her shoes with her as she goes to pray in the temple.
The main temple hall, with huge wooden doors in front of sliding screens.
Temple bell.
Outside the temple. Note the interestingly shaped trees. Their long branches are sculpted. You'll see more examples later.
The main gate was impressive! It was made of black wood, and painted with fantastic animals.
The main tree in the courtyard. Again, note its branches. They are so long and heavy they need poles to support them.
Heading to the next temple, I pass an orange Tori gate.
Another blue heron in the pond in front of the temple.
Next up is the To-ji temple, established in 794. It has a 5 story pagoda (one of the largest I saw). The main hall contains several (rather large) Buddah statues.
Around the temple.
The temple bell.
My first encounter with raked white pebbles. There will be many more!
Walking to the next temple, we see a huge Tori gate in the city. They're everywhere!
The Shoren-in Temple. This was one of my favorites. It was so incredibly peaceful. All of the walls were screens, which could be rolled back to see the amazing garden. The fluid movement from indoors to outdoors contributed to the magic of this temple.
Passing from room to room, all separated by sliding screens.
The gardens. So peaceful.
I think that if I could have a house designed like this, I would be very content.
Behind the temple was a bamboo forest, with conference friends Kari and Richard for scale.
The giant bell on the temple grounds. We even rang it!
The massive gate of the Chion-in Temple. The large wooden gate is one of the largest in Japan.
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